Fermented seasonal vegetables work for morning, noon, night

(Nov. 20, 2009) Kimchi, also spelled kimchee, refers to a traditional Korean fermented dish of seasonal vegetables that is served as an accompaniment for rice. Dubbed Korea's food, kimchi is not partial and is on the table for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Kimchi has been a mainstay of Korean culture for more than 2,000 years. Though cabbage kimchi is the bestknown version of this food, literally hundreds of others exist.

November is the season for making paechu or cabbage kimchi. The minor ingredients are marinated between cabbage leaves and salted for preservation. The bundles are tightly bound with string and jars are filled with brine. Fermentation begins quickly and kimchi can keep indefinitely if the jar is buried outdoors in the cold Korean winter. When the jar is opened, initially there is an unpleasant smell, but this soon dissipates and the fruits of labor are ready for consumption. Originally created as a way of preserving the summer's harvest throughout the year, kimchi is now an indispensable feature of Korean cuisine.

For those who relish vegetables and take delightful pleasures in worldly adventures, kimchi is a must. Waves of native flavors ride the tide of aromatic distinction. Crunchy Chinese seasonal cabbage adds textural depth to a sauce seasoned with structural complexity. A paste of ground chilies lights the soul with fiery anticipation. Garlic, minuscule salted shrimp, anchovy sauce, ginger and scallion intertwine to permeate this classic.

Kimchi served in Korean restaurants is quite different from the kimchi that can be purchased at one's local grocery store. Store bought kimchi is usually made with Napa cabbage and the taste is simply not indicative of this ancient art.

One may surmise that expectations are the root of this popular international dish. Sauerkraut is finely sliced cabbage that has been fermented by various lactic acid bacteria. Sauerkraut has been dubbed the world's most successful super food. The cruciferous vegetable is high in antioxidant cancer-fighting compounds, fiber, vitamins, calcium and minerals.

According to the Oxford Companion to Food, "sauerkraut is usually considered to be a German invention of widespread antiquity. In fact, it appears to have evolved gradually from earlier forms of pickled cabbage and did not attain its present style until the 17th century."

The history of pickles dates back to the 3rd century BC. Pickles were made with brine and other liquids and were considered a "wet" type of salting. Sauerkraut is made from a "dry" salting process. The liquid in sauerkraut is a result of the liquid being drawn out of the cabbage by the salt.

"The Romans ate quantities of cabbage and liked pickles. They did not combine these two predilections into sauerkraut, but instead preserved cabbage in sour wine, vinegar and verjuice, with the addition of salt.

The first description of a naturally acidified product of cabbage is in Le Tresor de santi (1607), which describes it as German. The cabbage was shredded and packed with salt, juniper barberries, pepper and spices.

In 1772, the third edition of James Lind's famous Treatise of the Scurvy describes a Dutch method for producing zoorkool. Essentially, it is the same as the German method, but no brine is added. It is by this method that sauerkraut is made now.

The ways to prepare sauerkraut are as diversified as its history. My southern ancestors presented its true, natural form with no added spices. However, adjustment is an option that turns the pages of menus to a new chapter. Sauerkraut with sweet Italian sausage and fresh pineapple is fit for any Thanksgiving feast. There are several steps, but the rewards reap the efforts.

Sauerkraut
1 pound sweet Italian sausage
(2) 1-pound, 11-ounce can sauerkraut
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 small sweet onion, finely chopped
4 large heads garlic, minced
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
2 cups fresh pineapple, coarsely chopped
1 apples, peeled, thinly sliced, cored

1. Drain sauerkraut and set aside.

2. Prick casings of sausage. Place sausage in sauté pan with 1/2 to 1 inch water, depending on thickness of sausage. Let water come to medium simmer and cook for 10 minutes. After 5 minutes turn the sausage. This procedure is optional but it helps rid the sausage of fat. Remove sausage from pan. Rinse the pan and sauté sausage until it caramelizes and is crispy. Set sausage aside. When cool, slice sausage into thin slices at an angle.

3. In the same pan, sauté garlic and onions in canola oil over medium heat until translucent.

4. Combine all of the ingredients including the drippings from the onion mixture and thoroughly mix in a large saucepan. Cook over high heat uncovered for 5 minutes and constantly stir. This step allows the alcohol to evaporate. Cover the pan and reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Serve 4 to 6

Secret Ingredient: Adjustment. "We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails" … Dolly Parton