Past, present and future ingredients in recipes
Trio is measure of success in nearly all food formulas
DEBORAH LEE WALKER n Contributing Writer (Nov. 13, 2009) Cooking is a trilogy of work in progress. The past, present and future are the measures of successful recipes.
The rise to any occasion depends on the evaporation of fear and incorporation of research. Knowledge equates assurance, which alludes to purpose and presentation. Soufflé is the past participle
of the French verb soufflér, which means "to blow up." This magnificent tower escalates dramatically out of its dish and climaxes into culinary piece de resistance. Soufflés
can be sweet or savory and can be served as an appetizer, side dish, main course or dessert.
A soufflé is made of two parts. The base (made from egg yolks, sauce or puree) contains all the flavor components. The egg whites constitute the dynamic aspect of this classic-their volume can be increased as much as eight times when beaten. Simplicity for those not familiar with chemistry: air beaten into the egg whites is trapped in the foam walls, which dilate when subjected to the heat of the oven. Steam also assists in the leavening process.
Egg whites will acquire more volume if they are room temperature. The beating bowl and whisk or beaters must be free of fat and moisture. The slightest trace of egg yolk will nullify all attempts in the art of soufflé making.
The addition of cream of tartar stabilizes the egg foam and helps retards their disintegration after the beating stops.
Copper and stainless steel bowls are the preferred choices for mixing. Never use plastic because of the natural ability to retain fat. Note: If one is mixing in a copper bowl, do not add cream of tartar.
A soufflé dish is usually made of white porcelain. The mold should have straight sides and be able to withstand heat.
Mis in place is a French term that means making sure you have all the measured ingredients at hand. Time is of the essence and preparation is imperative.
Do not pour a soufflé into a baking dish; spoon it in using a large sauce spoon. Less air is lost this way.
Drama not only makes its presence on the stage, but it also "stars" in the kitchen. Some soufflé recipes call for a collar to be attached to the ramekin for an added dimension of height. I would suggest the novice chef to bypass this step. Case in point — the temperature of the oven is not carried through the material of the collar at the same rate as the ceramic material of the soufflé dish. When one removes the collar, there is a risk of the soufflé collapsing due to the difference of temperature.
Place the soufflés on a baking sheet. The reason is two-fold — the baking sheet helps facilitate the removal from the oven and also prevents spillovers in the oven.
Remove any remaining racks in the oven except for the one to cook the soufflé. As the soufflé rises, there is a chance the soufflé will stick to the rack above as it rises. If the soufflés are placed too close to the bottom of the oven, there is the possibility it will burn before it properly cooks. I suggest the second to last position for the rack.
Soufflés have a short "living time," which essentially means they must be served immediately; otherwise, the soufflé will collapse as it cools. Michael Ruhlman, author of "Elements of Cooking," writes "soufflés are less fragile and difficult than their reputation suggests."
Thanksgiving is around the corner and it's time to start planning one's menu. Corn soufflé is an excellent first course or side dish for any feast. The illustrious lightness will elevate any menu.
Corn Soufflé
butter and flour for the soufflé pan
3 cups cooked fresh corn kernels
(approximately 6 ears)
3 small cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons shallots, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons bacon drippings
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup warm milk
1 cup warm heavy cream
1 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
5 eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
9 x 13 x 2" soufflé or casserole pan
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees
2. Butter and flour soufflé dish.
3. Saute garlic and shallots in bacon drippings over medium heat. Set aside.
4. Place corn in food processor and pulse 3 times or until kernels are lightly crushed and retain a milky liquid.
5. Heat butter in large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When butter is melted, remove from heat and whisk in flour. When paste is smooth, return to heat and whisk in warm milk. Constantly whisk until mixture is thick. Whisk in warm cream.
6. Remove from heat, fold in crushed corn, garlic mixture (including drippings), thyme, sugar, cayenne, salt and pepper.
7. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar until they form stiff peaks.
8. In another bowl, beat the egg yolks. Add yolks to corn mixture. Blend in one large spoonful of egg whites. Gently fold the remaining egg whites into corn mixture. Do not over blend; puffs of white should be visible. Spoon mixture into prepared pan and bake 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown.
9. Serve on warm plates immediately and sprinkle a dusting of Parmesan cheese.
Secret Ingredient: Reflection. "Everyone thinks of changing the world, but no one thinks of changing himself" … Leo Tolstoy
