Cooking with wine began with Greeks, Romans; continues today

(Oct. 23, 2009) Cooking with wine began with the Greeks and Romans. This popular trend has continued to grace the pages of cookbooks of all cultures. But how familiar are we with the components associated with such a given?

Cooking with wine is an easy way to add a nuanced, sophisticated flavor that cannot be acquired with herbs. It is also a great way to add depth that makes even the simplest dish seem more complex.

The first and most important rule: Use only wine that you would drink. I am fascinated at the philosophy of adding inferior "spirits" to enhance the taste in the art of cooking. I am by no means suggesting the only path to culinary bliss is a bottle of Penfolds 1957 Shiraz St. Henri, which was recently auctioned off for a whopping price of $6,991.

The use of wine as an ingredient is controlled by several factors. For example, Sauvignon Blanc is known for its herbaceous quality and would be a perfect choice for fish accompanied with an herb sauce. Zinfandels have a berry character and would be a nice background for duck in a blackberry sauce. A buttery Chardonnay is a natural pairing with butter based beurre blanc sauces.

The more you learn about the characteristics of the different types of grapes and the process of wine making, the more creative one will be at highlighting ingredients with particular "pairings."

Wine has three main uses in the kitchen: as a marinade, as cooking liquids and as flavoring enhancements. The function of the wine is to fortify the essence of the dish. The alcohol in wine evaporates at 175 degrees. Water boils at 212 degrees. So if you deglaze a hot pan with wine, initially more alcohol will evaporate than water.

Wine needs time to impart its "fruits." It should simmer with the food for approximately 10 minutes. For ultimate results, wine should be reduced slowly over low heat. This method takes more time and effort, but will achieve a superior sauce because the compounds in the wine are better preserved and able to permeate the dish in stages.

All wines contain acid and this issue needs to be addressed when cooking with

wine. Different wines have different acidity levels, which can affect the taste of food. For instance, if one is making a red wine sauce that includes tomatoes, you should use a wine with a strong acid content, in order to counteract the acidity of the tomatoes. Otherwise the wine will be overpowered by the tomatoes and the purpose intended is for naught.

If one decides to use wine in a marinade, be careful of your options. The wine will not have the opportunity to evaporate under the influence of heat. Choose a wine that will complement and not overpower the meat.

Cooking with wine affects the choice of cookware. Stainless steel and other nonreactive pots are best for cooking with wine recipes. Copper and other pans will react with the acidity and discolor the food, which ultimately affects the taste.

Cooking tips come in many variable degrees. Professional training is a gift for the chosen few. However, personal roots influence the prism of sway. Coq au Vin is a French dish that tests the skills of "classic" trained chefs. Following is a simplified version. Red wine is the preferred choice for this renowned dish. However, equal parts of red and white wine, along with the added element of veal demi-glaze, equates deepness with overtones of crispness. Coq au Vin fills the kitchen with swirls of rustic aromas and is an ideal fall meal.

Coq au Vin
3 pounds cut up frying chicken, skin on
and thoroughly dried (I prefer chicken
breasts and thighs)
4 ounces lean thick-cut bacon or salt pork
2 tablespoons olive oil
kosher salt, fresh ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup cognac
1 cup Pinot Noir
1 cup Pinot Grigio
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup veal demi-glaze stock
1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 bay leaves
2 teaspoons thyme
2 teaspoons herbs de province
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely
chopped
4 cloves garlic finely chopped
8 ounces pearl onions
8 ounces assorted wild mushrooms
2 carrots, peeled and cut at an angle
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons butter, softened

1. Cut bacon or lard into thick lardoons (rectangles 1/4-inch across and 1 inch long). In a saucepan, simmer fat in 2 quarts of water for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, drain, rinse in cold water and pat dry.

2. In a large frying pan over medium high heat, add the precooked fat and sauté until lightly browned. Remove bacon or lard to a side dish.

3. Place chicken pieces into hot oil and brown on all sides. Overcrowding the pan will hinder the browning process. Return fat to pan, cover pan and reduce heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes, turning the chicken only once.

4. Uncover pan and stir in cognac. Flambe by igniting with a match. Allow sauce to flame for about 30 seconds. Extinguish by covering pan with lid.

5. Add wine, stocks, tomato paste, carrots, garlic and herbs. Bring liquid to a simmer, cover pan, and simmer for about 23 minutes. Add onions and mushrooms and cook for another 5 minutes or until chicken is done.

6. Place chicken, carrots, mushrooms and onions on a serving platter, leaving liquid in pan. Increase heat to high and allow to come to a boil.

7. In a small bowl, blend flour and butter into a smooth paste. Whisk the mixture with 2 cups hot liquid. Add the mixture back to the sauce and stir thoroughly. The flour/butter combination will thicken the sauce.

8. Pour over chicken and vegetables. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6

Secret Ingredients: Fortification. "Life is to be fortified by many friendships. To love and to be loved is the greatest happiness of existence" … Sydney Smith.