Simplest, most popular salad veggie has complicated history

(Sept. 4, 2009) Lettuce is by far the most popular of the leafy salad vegetables. It is a temperate annual or biennial plant of the daisy family Asteraceae. The original reason for cultivating lettuce was probably medicinal. It has a long history beginning in the Near East. Ancient Egyptian tombstones of about 4500 BC have depictions of what appears to be lettuce. In the early Roman period, lettuce was eaten at the end of dinner to induce sleep.

By the fifth century, the plant was being cultivated in China, where it has always been treated as a vegetable to be cooked. Hints come in many flavors. Supposition is a subject with many degrees. The kitchen is a place where conclusion is based on personal propriety.

Arugula, Belgium endive, chicory and red leaf lettuce are just a few of the dazzling "stars" that proudly display their enticing attributes in the isles of ones local supermarket. Timed fine mists forms beaded purses of succulent sheen. Each one demands the utmost attention. How dare you walk past me without at least a little squeeze is the undertone of culinary flirtation.

If lettuce had the ability to reason and experience true emotion, iceberg lettuce would possibly end up institutionalized and under the constant care of a psychiatrist. The rise and fall of iceberg lettuce is due to expanded marketing and direct availability of gourmet Lactuca sativa.

Iceberg lettuce is considered bland and boring compared to its siblings. It was once the pride and joy of American food; now, it has gracefully given up center stage and copes with feelings of inferiority.

But every true "star" is capable of a comeback. Iceberg lettuce has been an intricate part of the Chinese cuisine since the 1960s. The Chinese stir-fry or braise lettuce because they generally do not eat raw vegetables. It is used as a base for pan-fried meats; its sturdy leaves are also used as edible cups for minced chicken, duck, beef and pork. No other lettuce has the basic compo- nents for such a desired effect and purpose.

Years ago, as I struggled to rid my body of 100 pounds of excessive fat, lettuce wraps were my best friend. Starches, especially bread, were forbidden. The crunchy lettuce encasing tuna or chicken salad was one of my favorites. An Italian cold cut, with onions and sweet and hot peppers, was another wrap to die for. I adore rare roast beef. The tenderness of the meat parlays nicely with crisp iceberg lettuce. Simply assemble with favorite condiments and toppings that one would normally include in a sandwich.

Lettuce wraps are turning up in restaurants across the country. They are most often offered as an appetizer but can easily be devoured as a main course. I encourage you to experiment and have fun. Personal taste is your guide.

But for those who like structure, a Thai lettuce wrap fuses flavors and textures with explosive results.

THAI LETTUCE WRAP
1 head iceberg lettuce (cored, washed,
dried, leaves separated and refrigerated)
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
1 red chili, de-seeded, finely chopped
1/2 cup chicken, finely shredded
1 small carrot, cut julienne style
5 shitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/2 cup red cabbage, thinly sliced
1/2 cup yellow pepper, thinly sliced
1 1/2 cup bean sprouts
1 tablespoon each lemon, lime juice

2 tablespoons each soy and fish sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
GARNISH
1 cup fresh Thai basil
4 spring onions, finely chopped
(white and green)
1/2 cups dry roasted peanuts, roughly
chopped

1. Place oil in large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic, shallots, ginger and chili. Sauté for 4 minutes.

2. Add chicken and cook until done. Time will vary according to thickness of shredded chicken. Make sure chicken is well salted. Set aside.

3. In a small bowl, mix lemon and limejuice, soy sauce, fish and oyster sauce. Pour mixture into saucepan, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, cabbage and yellow peppers and sauté for 4 minutes.

4. Combine all ingredients (except for lettuce) in a large bowl.

5. To assemble wraps, take a whole lettuce leaf and place 2 to 3 tablespoons of mixture in the center. Again the amount of chicken mixture will vary according to size of the leaf. Place wrap in the center of the plate, garnish with a whole basil leaf and sprinkle with peanuts and spring onions.

If one thinks wraps are the epitome of culinary accomplishment for iceberg, think again. Cooked lettuce is a hot topic. Stir-fried garlic lettuce is a favorite in Cantonese cuisine.

n SECRET INGREDIENT: Comeback. "You have no choices about how you lose, but you do have a choice about how you come back and prepare to win" … Pat Riley.