Sinfully tasteful cheese not easy on the calories

(June 26, 2009) The intimate relationship between food and rumination is an exotic culmination of sensory perception. Different venues and purposes reflect cultural choices.

Some say chance is a given, but for the wise it is only a hypothesis of the unexplained. Experimentation plus discovery equals the state of gastronomical transcendence. Hailing from Italy's Lombardy region, mascarpone was first made in an area southwest of Milan sometime around late 16th or early 17th century. It is the most mispronounced and misspelled cheese in all of cheesedom. "Mas-kahr-POH-nay" is the correct pronunciation.

Softness and succulence has its price. This delicious, decadent, triple cream cheese has a fat content of 75 percent.

The cheese's original name is up for debate. The cheese UK Web site sums it up nicely: "Some say mascarpone comes from the Spanish 'mas que bueno' (better than good). Others believe the name comes from mascarpia, a local dialect term for the similarly produced ricotta. According to culinary experts, the

cheese's original name was mascherpone, a moniker derived from 'Cascina Mascherpa,' a family farmhouse that was once located halfway between Milan and Pavia."

Mascarpone is "technically" not a cheese. It is actually made in a similar manner as yogurt, with a culture. The cows are fed a special diet of grasses, herbs and flowers, which ultimately gives mascarpone its luscious flavor and hefty price.

Mascarpone is the main ingredient in tiramisu, although desserts are not the only possibility. Mascarpone can be added to pasta sauces. The cheese adds richness and should be added toward the end. It can also be used to thicken soups or risotto. Replacing butter with a flavored mascarpone is an innovative way to add pizzazz to bread service. Adding a dollop of mascarpone to one's favorite dip adds depth and viscosity. Predictability is a spice of the past.

A good mascarpone has a shelf life of one to two months. How does one tell if it has spoiled? If an air pocket has pushed the lid up, press down on the lid. If the lid springs back up, time to discard.

Does one want to play cheese maker? According Paula Laurita, making your own is easier than one thinks. The hardest aspect will be obtaining tartaric acid. Tartaric acid is naturally produced in grapes. You should be able to purchase it at pharmacies or stores that sell winemaking supplies.

While making mascarpone is not difficult, one needs to plan ahead. The cheese will need to rest for at least a day before use. The cheese does not have any preservatives and will need to be consumed within a few days. Following is Paula Laurita's simple recipe for mascarpone.
Mascarpone Cheese
1 pint heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon tartaric acid
1/4 teaspoon confectioner's sugar

1. Fill the bottom of a double boiler with enough water to touch the top pan, but the top should fit neatly and not float. Bring to a simmer.

2. Pour the cream into the top of a double boiler and place over simmering water.

3. Add the confectioner's sugar and whisk constantly.

4. When the cream is warm, add the tartaric acid. Whisk over the heat until the cream reaches a temperature of 180 degrees.

5. Remove from heat and allow to cool, whisking occasionally.

6. Pour the mixture into a bowl through a thick cheesecloth or line a fine meat strainer with a coffee filter.

7. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.

Chilled pea soup with lemon mascarpone is a refreshing, mouth-watering dish that is perfect for the summer. It can be served as an amuse bouche, appetizer or main course. Skip the chilling stage and a cup of hot, hearty pea soup can be sipped year-round. Peas and lemon are a match made in heaven!
Pea Soup
6 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 cups frozen peas
1/2 to 1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon thyme, Herbs de Province
kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
Lemon Mascarpone
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup (4 ounces) mascarpone (can
be purchased at local Italian delis or
gourmet grocery stores)
zest of one lemon, plus six whole
fresh lemon verbena leaves for garnish.

Pea Soup

1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Sauté garlic and onions until translucent (10 minutes).

2. Stir in flour and cook for another 3 minutes.

3. Add stock and bring broth to a boil over medium heat.

4. Remove soup base from heat and add peas and herbs.

5. Carefully pour mixture into a blender and puree until very smooth.

6. Stir in 1/2 to 1 cup cream and thin if necessary with additional broth. Salt and pepper soup according to personal preference. When the soup has cooled, refrigerate covered for at least 3 hours.

Lemon Mascarpone

Whip cream using an electric mixer. When it thickens beat in mascarpone. This can be prepared ahead of time. Lemon zest should be added just before serving. Start with zest of 1/2 lemon and adjust according to personal taste.

Presentation

Serve chilled soup in a glass tumbler or bowl with a small dollop of lemon mascarpone and lemon verbena leaf placed on top. Glass containers show off the gorgeous color of the soup. Inexpensive glass containers can be purchased at your local five and dime store. Lemon verbena plants can be purchased at your local nursery. Serves 8.

Secret Ingredient: Predictability, "If life were predictable it would cease to be life, and be without flavor" … Eleanor Roosevelt.