Dry rub requires patience, but adds intense flavors to recipes

(June 19, 2009) Misconceptions are normal suppositions based on prevailing thought, even though prevailing thought might be wrong. Having said that, the subject of rubs verses marinades, and what they do, is up for debate.

Contrary to popular belief, marinades are not "tenderizers." Most marinades contain an acid component that does dissolve proteins and plant enzymes, but the effect is localized only to the surface of the food.

Culinary quiz of the day: why do marinades seem to tenderize? Most marinades contain salty, sweet, acidic and spicy ingredients. The combination plays havoc on one's taste buds. Immediately saliva glands start pumping. By the time one is on the third chew, the food is thoroughly lubricated. Another point to consider is saliva contains amylase, which also contributes to the deconstruction process.

According to an online Web dictionary, "chemistry is the science of matter; the branch of the natural sciences dealing with the composition of substance and

their properties and reactions." Cooking is chemistry. The PH (acid versus base) is critical in understanding marinades. The more acid the brine contains, the longer it takes the flavors to work their way through the meat. So if a marinade consists of a substantial amount of wine or vinegar, neutralize it with a touch of baking soda, a base substance. Only add a touch, as too much leads to bitterness.

When grocery shopping, bypass meat tenderizers. They don't do the job until a temperature of 140 to 175 degrees is reached. So applying the seasonings on meat at room temperature is pointless.

With marinade recipes, the trick is to create a well-balanced product. An effective marinade should have about 30 to 40 percent acidity per volume with the oil providing the remaining 60 to 70 percent. If a marinade is also to be used for later basting or served as a sauce, reserve a portion before adding the raw meat.

Always marinate under refrigeration. The preferred venues are plastic bags, glass, ceramic or non-reactive stainless steel. Allow a half cup of marinade for each pound of meat, which must be com- pletely immersed.

On the other hand, undivided attention is always welcome. Look but don't touch does not apply here. Liberally dredge a favorite slab of meat with a mixture of spices and dried herbs. Slowly massage the meat. Don't forget the nooks and crannies.

After a time of rest, the salt will pull the moisture to the surface, enticing another rub down. Depending on the concentration of flavor, "more" can be heard over and over again.

Before we continue, let's establish the difference between an herb and spice. Herbs are obtained from the leafy part of the plant while spices are obtained from roots, flowers, fruits, seeds or bark.

Spices are native to warm tropical climates and often are more potent compared to an herb and herbs, although grown around the world, found prominence first in France, Italy and England.

Some plants are both herbs and spices. The leaves of Coriandrum sativum are the source of cilantro (herb) while coriander (spice) is from the plant's seeds. Dill is another example. The seeds are a spice while dill weed is an herb derived from the plant's stems and leaves.

A rub or dry marinade, when applied to the food's surface, is intense. How much flavor actually permeates the meat is determined by how long the rub has been incorporated with its counterpart.

Rubs are comprised of a paste or dry form. Rubs must also complement and enhance the food item. Twelve hours are the minimum requirement for scrumptious results.

There are two main concepts to keep in mind when formulating a rub. The proportion of salt should be great enough to trigger osmosis and begin to draw the moisture from the surface of the meat. Secondly, the proportion of sugar should not be excessive because it will caramelize and burn during the cooking process.

The next time your palate is drooling for ribs, consider a dry marinade. Perfection is a summation of trial and error.
Dry Rub
4 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons celery seeds
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black
pepper
4 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground oregano
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
2 teaspoons rosemary, finely chopped
2 teaspoons sage leaves
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder

1. Toast celery, cumin and coriander seeds in a small non-stick sauté pan, over medium-high heat. Keep pan moving to avoid burning. Cool and grind in a pepper mill or coffee grinder.

2. Combine all ingredients. Rub mixture over ribs and massage thoroughly.

Refrigerate for 15 hours. Cook according to preferred methods. Barbecue sauce can be added toward the end (optional). Rub makes enough to coat 3 to 4 racks, depending on size.

Secret ingredient: Justification. "An explanation of cause is not a justification by reason" … C.S. Lewis.